Thursday, March 26, 2015

RIHLA (Journey 49): THE QUAYS TO CONNEMARA – PART 2: GORUMNA ISLAND





Rihla (The Journey) – was the short title of a 14th Century (1355 CE) book written in Fez by the Islamic legal scholar Ibn Jazayy al-Kalbi of Granada who recorded and then transcribed the dictated travelogue of the Tangerian, Ibn Battuta. The book’s full title was A Gift to Those who Contemplate the Wonders of Cities and the Marvels of Travelling and somehow the title of Ibn Jazayy's book captures the ethos of many of the city and country journeys I have been lucky to take in past years.

This is the second rihla ( see: Rihla 47) about the quays of the Connemara Islands (na hOileáin); this time exploring those of Gorumna Island.



“Actually I never understand the why of anything – 
my own obscure but insistent motivations least of all.”

William Seabrook
Adventures in Arabia
1928

I came across Seabrook’s book recently quite by accident and never having heard of one of America’s 'Lost Generation' explorists (I use explorist rather than explorer because Seabrook’s curiosity led him beyond geography to occultism and cannibalism amongst other travels!) I was quite astounded by the descriptive detail and sheer enjoyment of social and geographic exploration in this, one of his earliest books. It also somehow sums up my own failure to adequately explain my reason’s for wanting to go somewhere... or anywhere!

In Gorumna Island’s case, there was the logical explanation of it being the second part of my exploration of the quays and slipways of the Connemara islands, but allied to this, knowing at the back of my mind, was a recurring curiosity about the origin of the name. I just did not understand the why?


Books to Topograph with!

I recently got a present of Robert Macfarlane’s book, Landmarks an etymological exploration and glossary of the ever-evolving language of landscape, conceived as a ‘counter-desecration’ and counter-eradication phrasebook. Impressive as his scholarly effort is it pales into almost opaqueness by the efforts of another scholar living in Qatar, and generously highlighted by Macfarlane at the end of his book, a Simon Fitzwilliam-Hall who starting with Arabic, Persian, Turkish has analysed 140 living and dead languages and geographies in a ‘vast’ work in progress which is called Language in the Landscape: A Multilingual Glossary of Topographical Terms and Place-Name elements in the Afro-Eurasian Lands (The Topoglossary for short). Macfarlane records that the “B” section alone, beginning with ba the Akkadian for water, of the Topoglossary comes to 343 pages. With this in mind my efforts to understand the etymology of Gorumna is almost embarrassing.

The Irish for Gorumna is Garmna and Irish dictionaries point to this as being a variant spelling of garma, which means a cross-beam such as that on a gallows, or topographically a long protective sandbar or peninsula. Tim Robinson in his gazetteer of Connemara advocates another derivation of the name from gar meaning near and omhna an oak tree. Gorumna has not gallows, peninsulas, sandbars or much in the way of oak.


A pictorial from The Graphic magazine in May 1880 showing
a famine relief visit from the Duke of Edinburgh to Gorumna.


John Millington Synge wrote as he passed through Gorumna in the company of Jack Butler Yeats in the summer of 1905 that, The remainder of the road to the lower western end of Gorumna led through hilly districts that became more and more white with stone, though here and there a few brown masses of bog or an oblong lake with many islands and rocks. Gorumna has always had, I suspect, a denuded topography and I suggest that origin of the island’s name is more likely to be from garrmóna meaning soft or worthless turf. 


Map and Locations

1. Céibh an Mháimín
Quay of the Small Pass


This quay was designed by Alexander Nimmo in 1822




2. Céibhe na Speice 
Quay of the Glance



3. Céibh Ghlais na nUan
Quay of the Stream of the Lambs




4. Céibh an Doirin Darach
Quay of the Small Oakwood




5. Céibh an Trá Bháin
Quay of the White Beach


The Song of the Drowning


Pilgrim's (Oilitherach) Church overlooking Trá Bháin


6. Céibh an tAircín
Quay of the Creek






7. Céibh an tSáilín
Quay of the Little Heel of the Sea




8. Céibh Sheanachamheas
Quay of the Gathering (to Compare)







9. Céibh Poll Uí Mhuirin
Quay of O'Murrin's Hollow






10. No-Name Medieval Monastery and Churchyard
South of the Lake of the Village of the Church




The Rock of Doom!


Gort an Mhaoil or Field of the Delay, named after a local man
who was held up for three days by fairies (or something else entirely!)

11. Céibh Baile na Cille
Quay of the Village of the Church



12. Céibh na Fionnoige
Quay of the Crowberry




13. An Caladh Beag
The Small Harbour


14. Bóthar na nOileáin
The low-tide causeway that links Inis Bearcháin to Gorumna






15. Céibhe Ghleann Trasna
Quay of the Crosswise Glen



16. Céibhe an Roisín
Quay of the Small Headland